YouTube Channel Latest Video Training

My YouTube Channel Latest Photography Video Training.

I’ve been busy this week adding more content to the old YouTube channel.

Adding content is really time-consuming, with recording times taking around twice the length of the final video.

Then there’s the editing, which usually takes around the same time, or a bit longer.  Then encoding and compression and uploading takes around the same again.

So yes, a 25 minute video takes A LOT more than 25 minutes to make and make live for the world to view.

This weeks video training uploads are:

This video deals with the badly overlooked topic of raw file demosaicing.

Next up is:

This video is a refreshed version of getting contrast under control in Lightroom – particularly Lightroom Classic CC.

Then we have:

This video is something of a follow-up to the previous one, where I explain the essential differences between contrast and clarity.

And finally, one from yesterday – which is me, restraining myself from embarking on a full blown ‘rant’, all about the differences between DPI (dots per inch) and PPI (pixels per inch):

Important Note

Viewing these videos is essential for the betterment of your understanding – yes it is!  And all I ask for in terms of repayment from yourselves is that you:

  1. Click the main channel subscribe button HERE https://www.youtube.com/c/AndyAstbury
  2. Give the video a ‘like’ by clicking the thumbs up!

YouTube is a funny old thing, but a substantial subscriber base and like videos will bring me closer to laying my hands on latest gear for me to review for you!

If all my blog subscribers would subscribe to my YouTube channel then my subs would more than treble – so go on, what are you waiting for.

I do like creating YouTube free content, but I do have to put food on the table, so I have to do ‘money making stuff’ as well, so I can’t afford to become a full-time YouTuber yet!  But wow, would I like to be in that position.

So that’s that – appeal over.

Watch the videos, and if you have any particular topic you would like me to do a video on, then please just let me know.  Either email me, or you can post in the comments below – no comment goes live here unless I approve it, so if you have a request but don’t want anyone else to see it, then just say.

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Raw File Compression

Raw File Compression.

Today I’m going to give you my point of view over that most vexatious question – is LOSSLESS raw file compression TRULY lossless?

I’m going to upset one heck of a lot of people here, and my chances of Canon letting me have any new kit to test are going to disappear over the horizon at a great rate of knots, but I feel compelled to post!

What prompts me to commit this act of potential suicide?

It’s this shot from my recent trip to Norway:

FW1Q1351-2

Direct from Camera

FW1Q1351

Processed in Lightroom

I had originally intended to shoot Nikon on this trip using a hire 400mm f2.8, but right at the last minute there was a problem with the lens that couldn’t be sorted out in time, so Calumet supplied me with a 1DX and a 200-400 f4 to basically get me out of a sticky situation.

As you should all know by now, the only problems I have with Canon cameras are their  short Dynamic Range, and Canons steadfast refusal to allow for uncompressed raw recording.

The less experienced shooter/processor might look at the shot “ex camera” and be disappointed – it looks like crap, with far too much contrast, overly dark shadows and near-blown highlights.

Shot on Nikon the same image would look more in keeping with the processed version IF SHOT using the uncompressed raw option, which is something I always do without fail; and the extra 3/4 stop dynamic range of the D4 would make a world of difference too.

Would the AF have done as good a job – who knows!

The lighting in the shot is epic from a visual PoV, but bad from a camera exposure one. A wider dynamic range and zero raw compression on my Nikon D4 would allow me to have a little more ‘cavalier attitude’ to lighting scenarios like this – usually I’d shoot with +2/3Ev permanently dialled into the camera.  Overall the extra dynamic range would give me less contrast, and I’d have more highlight detail and less need to bump up the shadow areas in post.

In other words processing would be easier, faster and a lot less convoluted.

But I can’t stress enough just how much detrimental difference LOSSLESS raw file compression CAN SOMETIMES make to a shot.

Now there is a lot – and I mean A LOT – of opinionated garbage written all over the internet on various forums etc about lossless raw file compression, and it drives me nuts.  Some say it’s bad, most say it makes no difference – and both camps are WRONG!

Sometimes there is NO visual difference between UNCOMPRESSED and LOSSLESS, and sometimes there IS.  It all depends on the lighting and the nature of the scene/subject colours and how they interact with said lighting.

The main problem with the ‘it makes no difference’ camp is that they never substantiate their claims; and if they are Canon shooters they can’t – because they can’t produce an image with zero raw file compression to compare their standard lossless CR2 files to!

So I’ve come up with a way of illustrating visually the differences between various levels of raw file compression on Nikon using the D800E and Photoshop.

But before we ‘get to it’ let’s firstly refresh your understanding. A camera raw file is basically a gamma 1.0, or LINEAR gamma file:

gamma,gamma encoding,Andy Astbury

Linear (top) vs Encoded Gamma

The right hand 50% of the linear gamma gradient represents the brightest whole stop of exposure – that’s one heck of a lot of potential for recording subtle highlight detail in a raw file.

It also represents the area of tonal range that is frequently most effected by any form of raw file compression.

Neither Nikon or Canon will reveal to the world the algorithm-based methods they use for lossless or lossy raw file compression, but it usually works by a process of ‘Bayer Binning’.

Bayer_Pattern

If we take a 2×2 block, it contains 2 green, 1 red and 1 blue photosite photon value – if we average the green value and then interpolate new values for red and blue output we will successfully compress the raw file.  But the data will be ‘faux’ data, not real data.

The other method we could use is to compress the tonal values in that brightest stop of recorded highlight tone – which is massive don’t forget – but this will result in a ’rounding up or down’ of certain bright tonal values thus potentially reducing some of the more subtle highlight details.

We could also use some variant of the same type of algorithm to ‘rationalise’ shadow detail as well – with pretty much the same result.

In the face of Nikon and Canons refusal to divulge their methodologies behind raw file compression, especially lossless, we can only guess what is actually happening.

I read somewhere that with lossless raw file compression the compression algorithms leave a trace instruction about what they have done and where they’ve done it in order that a raw handler programme such as Lightroom can actually ‘undo’ the compression effects – that sounds like a recipe for disaster if you ask me!

Personally I neither know nor do I care – I know that lossless raw file compression CAN be detrimental to images shot under certain conditions, and here’s the proof – of a fashion:

Let’s look at the following files:

raw file compression

Image 1: 14 bit UNCOMPRESSED

raw file compression

Image 2: 14 bit UNCOMPRESSED

raw file compression

Image 3: 14 bit LOSSLESS compression

raw file compression

Image 4: 14 bit LOSSY compression

raw file compression

Image 5: 12 bit UNCOMPRESSED

Yes, there are 2 files which are identical, that is 14 bit uncompressed – and there’s a reason for that which will become apparent in a minute.

First, some basic Photoshop ‘stuff’.  If I open TWO images in Photoshop as separate layers in the same document, and change the blend mode of the top layer to DIFFERENCE I can then see the differences between the two ‘images’.  It’s not a perfect way of proving my point because of the phenomenon of photon flux.

Photon Flux Andy??? WTF is that?

Well, here’s where shooting two identical 14 bit uncompressed files comes in – they themselves are NOT identical!:

controlunamplified control

The result of overlaying the two identical uncompressed raw files (above left) – it looks almost black all over indicating that the two shots are indeed pretty much the same in every pixel.  But if I amplify the image with a levels layer (above right) you can see the differences more clearly.

So there you have it – Photon Flux! The difference between two 14 bit UNCOMPRESSED raw files shot at the same time, same ISO, shutter speed AND with a FULLY MANUAL APERTURE.  The only difference between the two shots is the ratio and number of photons striking the subject and being reflected into the lens.

Firstly 14 Bit UNCOMPRESSED compared to 14 bit LOSSLESS (the important one!):

raw file compression

14 bit UNCOMPRESSED vs 14 bit LOSSLESS

Please remember, the above ‘difference’ image contains photon flux variations too, but if you look carefully you will see greater differences than in the ‘flux only’ image above.

raw file compression raw file compression

The two images above illustrate the differences between 14 bit uncompressed and 14 bit LOSSY compression (left) and 14 bit UNCOMPRESSED and 12 bit UNCOMPRESSED (right) just for good measure!

In Conclusion

As I indicated earlier in the post, this is not a definitive testing method, sequential shots will always contain a photon flux variation that ‘pollutes’ the ‘difference’ image.

I purposefully chose this white subject with textured aluminium fittings and a blackish LED screen because the majority of sensor response will lie in that brightest gamma 1.0 stop.

The exposure was a constant +1EV, 1/30th @ f 18 and 100 ISO – nearly maximum dynamic range for the D800E, and f18 was set manually to avoid any aperture flicker caused by auto stop down.

You can see from all the ‘difference’ images that the part of the subject that seems to suffer the most is the aluminium part, not the white areas.  The aluminium has a stippled texture causing a myriad of small specular highlights – brighter than the white parts of the subject.

What would 14 bit uncompressed minus 14 bit lossless minus photon flux look like?  In a perfect world I’d be able to show you accurately, but we don’t live in one of those so I can’t!

We can try it using the flux shot from earlier:

raw file compression

But this is wildly inaccurate as the flux component is not pertinent to the photons at the actual time the lossless compression shot was taken.  But the fact that you CAN see an image does HINT that there is a real difference between UNCOMPRESSED and LOSSLESS compression – in certain circumstances at least.

If you have never used a camera that offers the zero raw file compression option then basically what you’ve never had you never miss.  But as a Nikon shooter I shoot uncompressed all the time – 90% of the time I don’t need to, but it just saves me having to remember something when I do need the option.

raw file compression

Would this 1DX shot be served any better through UNCOMPRESSED raw recording?  Most likely NO – why?  Low Dynamic Range caused in the main by flat low contrast lighting means no deep dark shadows and nothing approaching a highlight.

I don’t see it as a costly option in terms of buffer capacity or on-board storage, and when it comes to processing I would much rather have a surfeit of sensor data rather than a lack of it – no matter how small that deficit might be.

Lossless raw file compression has NO positive effect on your images, and it’s sole purpose in life is to allow you to fit more shots on the storage media – that’s it pure and simple.  If you have the option to shoot uncompressed then do so, and buy a bigger card!

What pisses my off about Canon is that it would only take, I’m sure, a firmware upgrade to give the 1DX et al the ability to record with zero raw file compression – and, whether needed or not, it would stop miserable grumpy gits like me banging on about it!

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Bit Depth

Bit Depth – What is a Bit?

Good question – from a layman’s point of view it’s the smallest USEFUL unit of computer/digital information; useful in the fact that it can have two values – 0 or 1.

Think of it as a light switch; it has two positions – ON and OFF, 1 or 0.

bit, Andy Astbury, bit depth

A bit is like a light switch.

We have 1 switch (bit) with 2 potential positions (bit value 0 or 1) so we have a bit depth of 1. We can arrive at this by simple maths – number of switch positions to the power of the number of switches; in other words 2 to the 1st power.

How Does Bit Depth Impact Our Images:

So what would this bit depth of 1 mean in image terms:

Andy Astbury,bit depth,

An Image with a Bit Depth of 1 bit.

Well, it’s not going to win Wildlife Photographer of the Year is it!

Because each pixel in the image can only be black or white, on or off, 0 or 1 then we only have two tones we can use to describe the entire image.

Now if we were to add another bit to the overall bit depth of the image we would have 2 switches (bits) each with 2 potential values so the total number of potential values, so 2 to the 2nd, or 4 potential output values/tones.

Andy Astbury,bits,bit depth

An image with a bit depth of 2 bits.

Not brilliant – but it’s getting there!

If we now double the bit depth again, this time to 4 bit, then we have 2 to the 4th, or 16 potential tones or output values per image pixel:

Andy Astbury,bits,bit depth

A bit depth of 4 bits gives us 16 tonal values.

And if we double the bit depth again, up to 8 bit we will end up with 2 to the 8th power, or 256 tonal values for each image pixel:

Andy Astbury,bits,bit depth

A bit depth of 8 bits yields what the eye perceives to be continuous unbroken tone.

This range of 256 tones (0 to 255) is the smallest number of tonal values that the human eye can perceive as being continuous in nature; therefore we see an unbroken range of greys from black to white.

More Bits is GOOD

Why do we need to use bit depths HIGHER than 8 bit?

Our modern digital cameras capture and store RAW images to a bit depth of 12 bit, and now in most cases 14 bit – 4096 & 16,384 tonal values respectively.

Just as we use the ProPhotoRGB colour space to preserve as many CAPTURED COLOURS as we can, we need to apply a bit depth to our pixel-based images that is higher than the capture depth in order to preserve the CAPTURED TONAL RANGE.

It’s the “bigger bucket” or “more stairs on the staircase” scenario all over again – more information about a pixels brightness and colour is GOOD.

Andy Astbury,bits,bit depth,tonal range,tonality,tonal graduation

How Tonal Graduation Increases with Bit Depth.

Black is black, and white is white, but increased bit depth gives us a higher number of steps/tones; tonal graduations, to get from black to white and vice versa.

So, if our camera captures at 14 bit we need a 15 bit or 16 bit “bucket” to keep it in.  And for those who want to know why a 14 bit bucket ISN’T a good idea then try carrying 2 gallons of water in a 2 gallon bucket without spillage!

The 8 bit Image Killer

Below we have two identical grey scale images open in Photoshop – simple graduations from black to white; one is a 16 bit image, the other 8 bit:

Andy Astbury,bits,bit depth,tone,tonal graduation

16 bit greyscale at the top. 8 bit greyscale below – CLICK Image to view full size.

Now everything looks OK at this “fit to screen” magnification; and it doesn’t look so bad at 1:1 either, but let’s increase the magnification to 1600% so we can see every pixel:

 

Andy Astbury,bits,bit depth,tone,tonal range,tonal graduation

CLICK Image to view full size. At 1600% magnification we can see that the 8 bit file is degraded.

At this degree of magnification we can see a huge amount of image degradation in the lower, 8 bit image whereas the upper, 16 bit image looks tonally smooth in its graduation.

The degradation in the 8 bit image is simply due to the fact that the total number of tones is “capped” at 256. and 256 steps to get from the black to the white values of the image are not sufficient – this leaves gaps in the image that Photoshop has to fill with “invented” tonal information based on its own internal “logic”….mmmmmm….

There was a time when I thought “girlies” were the most illogical things on the planet; but since Photoshop, now I’m not so sure…!

The image is a GREYSCALE – RGB ratios are supposedly equal in every pixel, but as you can see, Photoshop begins to skew the ratios where it has to do its “inventing” so we not only have luminosity artifacts, but we have colour artifacts being generated too.

You might look upon this as “pixel peeping” and “geekey”, but when it comes to image quality, being a pixel-peeping Geek is never a bad thing.

Of course, we all know 8bit as being “jpeg”, and these artifacts won’t show up on a web-based jpeg for your website; but if you are in the business of large scale gallery prints, then printing from an 8 bit image file is never going to be a good idea as these artifacts WILL show on the final print.

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